Neutralizing Azelaic Acid?!

Neutralizing something does not mean deactivating it. So let's keep that in mind as we talk about azelaic acid because it's not as complicated as people make it out to be. Azelaic acid is really annoying to formulate with because it doesn't like to dissolve in water. Sometimes you'll find it in this creamier format like with the ordinary azelaic acid suspension.

Sometimes you'll find it in this creamier format like with the ordinary azelaic acid suspension. And it's because it's easier to suspend the azelaic acid particles rather than trying to dissolve it. It works really well and you get great results but it's not the most cosmetically elegant. It's a little bit annoying to have to rub in. It can pill a little bit.

It's a little bit annoying to have to rub in. It can pill a little bit. It's just not that pretty to rub on your skin. If you're looking for more elegant textures, you go more for the water-based azelaic acid. wait, but she said azelaic acid doesn't dissolve in water which means there has to be no azelaic acid here. Wrong, wrong!

Wrong, wrong! So how do you get it to dissolve in water? How do you get it so watery like that? You play around with the pH and the solvents. Sodium hydroxide is the commonly used pH adjuster that will partially neutralize azelaic acid but neutralize does not mean deactivated.

but neutralize does not mean deactivated. It still works. The fancy mumbo-jumbo is that we are changing the ionization state of the azelaic acid. The better way to say it is that we're making it more water-soluble. We're changing how it behaves in a formula so that we can make a more elegant water-soluble product

so that we can make a more elegant water-soluble product and potentially improve its delivery into the skin. Both are good whether it's the creamy format or the watery format. It's up to you what you like to include in your routine. Some studies do say that the water-based ones get the active in a little bit better but there's some biases in that as well.

but there's some biases in that as well. But yeah, it just depends. What do you like? What works for you? This is all a science. Cosmetic formulators count science a little bit.

This is all a science. Cosmetic formulators count science a little bit.

Cosmetic formulators count science a little bit.